We spent a couple of days in Swakopmund before heading north again along the Skeleton Coast (so called because of the many shipwrecks which used to pepper its shore). Swakopmund is a modern little town wedged between the Atlantic Ocean and the sprawling Namib desert. Quad biking on those big ole' sand dunes was a whole lot of fun. From there we continued north and camped in the desert mountains near Spitzekope before continuing northeast to the lands of the Himba. Spitzekope is exquisite - the stars at night are gorgeous, the views are most pleasing to the eye, and cute rock dassies abound (for a video of the dassies, click HERE)! The Himba are a semi-nomadic people who have managed to prosper while maintaining their traditional way of life. The women never shower, but cover their bodies and hair in a fragrant ochre paste as an ornamental/cosmetic, as a sunscreen and to stay clean. Their villages are organized in a circle, with the cow pen (cows are very important in Himba culture) and sacred firepit in the center. We visited a Himba village in the sweltering heat. The men were all out with the herds. It felt a bit forced as we had to go with a guide, and the energy of the whole experience was kind of weird. I'm not sure how the Himba feel about visitors, especially a bunch of tourists snapping pictures of them like paparazzi on a human safari. This was followed by an exit-through-the-gift-shop tchatchke sale. Still I suppose if it helps them preserve a semblance of their traditional life, it is probably a good thing.