We spent a few days cruising around the lower east side of Vancouver Island, passing through towns like Duncan (with its totem many totem poles), Chemainus (with its many colonial murals) and Nanaimo (with its... Nanaimoness). Many beautiful forests and ocean views, as well as sad scenes like massive clearcuts. We then cut across the Island via Lake Cowichan to the southwestern coast, heading toward Port Renfrew.